Engine Oil question

[ComputerGuy]

5 hours ago, Alpha1 said:

Bottom line is use what is listed in your car manual. I strictly use 5W30, NOTHING ELSE. I could talk about this topic for more time than you'd like... 😜

My car was made in Canada, and the oil listed in the manual is for Canadian winters and summers... not Mexican deserts.

[Tiny]

On 4/10/2018 at 11:08 AM, ComputerGuy said:

I see that on the shelves of WalMart, the most popular grade is 15W50.

Maybe that is why it is so hard to find 5W30. Maybe 5W30 is only for the people that follow their manual as if it is the law.

[Alpha1]

14 hours ago, ComputerGuy said:

My car was made in Canada, and the oil listed in the manual is for Canadian winters and summers... not Mexican deserts.

I called Honda regarding my Canadian car and was told by engineering that the oil specified for Canada and Arizona is the same. Stick to the manual.

[ComputerGuy]

Well that was decent of you. Interestingly, my manual stipulates 5W30. I'm guessing that they just gave me whatever is cheap the last time.

[Alpha1]

1 hour ago, ComputerGuy said:

Well that was decent of you. Interestingly, my manual stipulates 5W30. I'm guessing that they just gave me whatever is cheap the last time.

I suspect you are correct. It is imperative to put in the correct viscosity and AMOUNT. People were having problems here with their new Honda's since they call for 0W20 which previously was not available other than a Honda dealer. A thicker oil caused BIG problems!

[Tiny]

On 4/10/2018 at 11:08 AM, ComputerGuy said:

my 2006 Buick Allure

I thought we were talking about this car, not a new car with full synthetic oil.  There is enough of a difference with synthetic oils that maybe that should be a new forum.

[Tiny]

We have not even talked about High Mileage Oil. CG, what mileage do have on your car?  Have you seen this type of oil here. 

Here is a comment from the Mobile web site.

"Is high mileage oil worth it?

High mileage engines – those with more than 75,000 miles – face a number of potential problems that high mileage oil is specifically formulated to address. Some high mileage oils, such as Mobil 1™ Extended Performance High Mileage, Mobil 1™ High Mileage and Mobil Super™ High Mileage, contain engine oil additives and conditioners that help to combat:

---

Engine oil consumption and leaks
Over time, an engine's seals can erode, causing engine oil to leak. Additives in certain high mileage oils can protect worn seals and keep leaks from forming. Older vehicles tend to burn more oil and the lower volatility of Mobil 1 High Mileage helps reduce oil loss caused by burn-off, particularly on cylinder walls due to leakage past the oil control ring.

---

Engine oil sludge
Sludge is a tar-like residue that can build up in an engine as the result of oil thickening or breakdown, most often the result of too-infrequent oil changes. High mileage oil can help remove engine sludge and reduce wear in older engines.

---

General engine wear and tear
As engines age, they can increasingly wear out. Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage and Mobil 1 High Mileage oils offer unsurpassed wear protection to help prevent wear and protect critical engine components – a claim supported by the industry-accepted Sequence IVA engine wear test.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/learn-about-motor-oil-facts/high-mileage-motor-oil

[solajijic]

 I learned a lot.  The radiator info was timely since I have to get the radiator back into a 90 jeep wagoneer in order to take it to the mechanic to start the restoration.  So now I have some info to ask him about.  Gracias.

[ComputerGuy]

105,000 miles. Good points. Haven't seen that type oil, but haven't looked.

[Tiny]

52 minutes ago, solajijic said:

 I learned a lot.  The radiator info was timely since I have to get the radiator back into a 90 jeep wagoneer in order to take it to the mechanic to start the restoration.  So now I have some info to ask him about.  Gracias.

As mentioned before, one word, from your mechanic , that you need to be cautious about is "flush".  You can have a "flush" of the radiator and transmission.  With transmission you can have a full or partial flush. The partial is just pumping out the material from the top. Full is dropping the pan on the bottom and cleaning it out. The flush of a radiator is tricky.  Sometime very little material loosens up and blocks the needed holes.  

I am not saying not to do it, because sometimes it is needed.  Just be careful who does it.

[Alpha1]

8 minutes ago, Tiny said:

As mentioned before, one word, from your mechanic , that you need to be cautious about is "flush".  You can have a "flush" of the radiator, engine, and transmission.  With engine and transmission you can have a full or partial flush. The partial is just pumping out the material from the top. Full is dropping the pan on the bottom and cleaning it out. The flush of a radiator is tricky.  Sometime very little material loosens up and blocks the needed holes.  

I am not saying not to do it, because sometimes it is needed.  Just be careful who does it.

A flush on an older vehicle can cause some problems since it may dislodge what was keeping things together prior to the flush, specifically with the transmission.

[RVGRINGO]

It may not be the interior of the radiator that needs cleaning, but the exterior fins. They are very fragile, so do not use a pressure hose.

When I had an overheating problem on an older vehicle, I had to remove the radiator and soak it in a bath of Dawn detergent overnight, in a pool made from a circle of bricks and a sheet of plastic.  It was full of dead bug bodies and road filth, which needed to be disolved. Only then could we use a very gentle rinse with clean water to flush the aluminum fins clean.  Once the radiator was re-installed, the car ran at perfectly normal temperatures, no matter the weather, the load, or the speed, as it now had the air flow that it needed to cool the engine.  A dirty, blocked radiator cannot perform as intended.

[Tiny]

6 minutes ago, RVGRINGO said:

It may not be the interior of the radiator that needs cleaning, but the exterior fins. They are very fragile, so do not use a pressure hose.

When I had an overheating problem on an older vehicle, I had to remove the radiator and soak it in a bath of Dawn detergent overnight, in a pool made from a circle of bricks and a sheet of plastic.  It was full of dead bug bodies and road filth, which needed to be disolved. Only then could we use a very gentle rinse with clean water to flush the aluminum fins clean.  Once the radiator was re-installed, the car ran at perfectly normal temperatures, no matter the weather, the load, or the speed, as it now had the air flow that it needed to cool the engine.  A dirty, blocked radiator cannot perform as intended.

Good point. All the articles I read did not mentioned that. I remember some people adding a screen in front of the radiator to catch the bugs. It was easier to clean.

[Tiny]

On 4/10/2018 at 11:08 AM, ComputerGuy said:

I've done enough research to discover that my 2006 Buick Allure would run best in this country using 5W30 engine oil.

CG, isn't there a Auto Zone store Lakeside? There is some high mileage oils on this web page but I am not sure the page applies to you.

https://www.autozone.com.mx/aceite-para-motor-y-aditivos-para-aceite/aceite-de-motor

 

[ComputerGuy]

Yep, we have two auto stores here, thanks.

[Tiny]

17 minutes ago, ComputerGuy said:

Yep, we have two auto stores here, thanks.

CG,  Of course, the price of high mileage oil is going to be  higher that regular oil, Auto Zone price is higher than Wal-Mart, and you have the cost of the additives.

So there is a couple of things to check or try.  Is that enoungh for now, CG?  HAHAHAHA

[ComputerGuy]

Yes, I think we can let this one go...

[Alpha1]

On 4/11/2018 at 2:53 PM, ComputerGuy said:

And where do you get yours? I haven't checked the local auto stores, but WalMart (which may or may not have the best price) has %W30 starting at $179 a litre.

I purchase a case from ROUX in Guadalajara 5W30 full synthetic rated at 20 000 km. Meets API donut standard.

 

http://gruporoux.mx/web/producto.php?id=6

 

[Tiny]

58 minutes ago, Alpha1 said:

I purchase a case from ROUX in Guadalajara 5W30 full synthetic rated at 20 000 km. Meets API donut standard.

Are you sure it is full synthetic?  Here is a translation of the link in your post.

Synthétique Competition

Oils for gasoline engine

Lubricant made with synthetic and mineral fluids, provides high performance in extreme or intense conditions of operation, also provides excellent protection against wear even in severe conditions. 
Recommended: for all types of recent model sports vehicles, family vehicles, suv`s and cuv`s reduces fuel consumption. 
API SN / SM / CF 
SAE 5W20, 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 15W40, 20W-50

It sounds like synthetic blend.  Which according to Popular Mechanics, a blend is better for most cars.

"Full Synthetic Oil: The oils made for high-tech engines, whether in a Chevy Corvette or Mercedes-Benz, are full synthetics. If these oils pass stringent special tests (indicated by their labeling), it means they have superior, longer-lasting performance in all the critical areas, from viscosity index to protection against deposits. They flow better at low temperatures and maintain peak lubricity at high temperatures. So why shouldn't everyone use them? Answer: These oils are expensive and not every engine needs them. In fact, there may be some features that your car's engine needs that the synthetics don't have. Again, follow your owner's manual.

Synthetic Blend Oil: These have a dose of synthetic oil mixed with organic oil, and overall are formulated to provide protection for somewhat heavier loads and high temperatures. This generally means they're less volatile, so they evaporate far less, which reduces oil loss (and increases fuel economy). They're popular with drivers of pickups/SUVs who want the high-load protection. And they're a lot less expensive than full synthetics, maybe just pennies more than a premium conventional oil.

Higher Mileage Oil: Today's vehicles last longer, and if you like the idea of paying off the car and running the mileage well into six figures, you have another oil choice, those formulated for higher-mileage vehicles. Almost two-thirds of the vehicles on the road have more than 75,000 miles on the odometer. So the oil refiners have identified this as an area of customer interest, and have new oils they're recommending for these vehicles.

When your car or light truck/SUV is somewhat older and has considerably more mileage, you may notice a few oil stains on the garage floor. It's about this time that you need to add a quart more often than when the vehicle was new. Crankshaft seals may have hardened and lost their flexibility, so they leak (particularly at low temperatures) and may crack. The higher-mileage oils are formulated with seal conditioners that flow into the pores of the seals to restore their shape and increase their flexibility. In most cases, rubber seals are designed to swell just enough to stop leaks. But the oil refiners pick their "reswelling" ingredients carefully. Valvoline showed us the performance data of one good seal conditioner that swelled most seal materials, but actually reduced swelling of one type that tended to swell excessively from the ingredients found in some other engine oils.

You also may have noticed some loss of performance and engine smoothness as a result of engine wear on your higher-mileage vehicle. These higher-mileage oils also have somewhat higher viscosities. (Even if the numbers on the container don't indicate it, there's a fairly wide range for each viscosity rating and the higher-mileage oils sit at the top of each range.) They also may have more viscosity-index improvers in them. The result? They seal piston-to-cylinder clearances better, and won't squeeze out as readily from the larger engine bearing clearances. They also may have a higher dose of antiwear additives to try to slow the wear process."

https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/

[Alpha1]

8 minutes ago, Tiny said:

Are you sure it is full synthetic?  Here is a translation of the link in your post.

Synthétique Competition

Oils for gasoline engine

Lubricant made with synthetic and mineral fluids, provides high performance in extreme or intense conditions of operation, also provides excellent protection against wear even in severe conditions. 
Recommended: for all types of recent model sports vehicles, family vehicles, suv`s and cuv`s reduces fuel consumption. 
API SN / SM / CF 
SAE 5W20, 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 15W40, 20W-50

It sounds like synthetic blend.  Which according to Popular Mechanics, a blend is better for most cars.

"Full Synthetic Oil: The oils made for high-tech engines, whether in a Chevy Corvette or Mercedes-Benz, are full synthetics. If these oils pass stringent special tests (indicated by their labeling), it means they have superior, longer-lasting performance in all the critical areas, from viscosity index to protection against deposits. They flow better at low temperatures and maintain peak lubricity at high temperatures. So why shouldn't everyone use them? Answer: These oils are expensive and not every engine needs them. In fact, there may be some features that your car's engine needs that the synthetics don't have. Again, follow your owner's manual.

Synthetic Blend Oil: These have a dose of synthetic oil mixed with organic oil, and overall are formulated to provide protection for somewhat heavier loads and high temperatures. This generally means they're less volatile, so they evaporate far less, which reduces oil loss (and increases fuel economy). They're popular with drivers of pickups/SUVs who want the high-load protection. And they're a lot less expensive than full synthetics, maybe just pennies more than a premium conventional oil.

Higher Mileage Oil: Today's vehicles last longer, and if you like the idea of paying off the car and running the mileage well into six figures, you have another oil choice, those formulated for higher-mileage vehicles. Almost two-thirds of the vehicles on the road have more than 75,000 miles on the odometer. So the oil refiners have identified this as an area of customer interest, and have new oils they're recommending for these vehicles.

When your car or light truck/SUV is somewhat older and has considerably more mileage, you may notice a few oil stains on the garage floor. It's about this time that you need to add a quart more often than when the vehicle was new. Crankshaft seals may have hardened and lost their flexibility, so they leak (particularly at low temperatures) and may crack. The higher-mileage oils are formulated with seal conditioners that flow into the pores of the seals to restore their shape and increase their flexibility. In most cases, rubber seals are designed to swell just enough to stop leaks. But the oil refiners pick their "reswelling" ingredients carefully. Valvoline showed us the performance data of one good seal conditioner that swelled most seal materials, but actually reduced swelling of one type that tended to swell excessively from the ingredients found in some other engine oils.

You also may have noticed some loss of performance and engine smoothness as a result of engine wear on your higher-mileage vehicle. These higher-mileage oils also have somewhat higher viscosities. (Even if the numbers on the container don't indicate it, there's a fairly wide range for each viscosity rating and the higher-mileage oils sit at the top of each range.) They also may have more viscosity-index improvers in them. The result? They seal piston-to-cylinder clearances better, and won't squeeze out as readily from the larger engine bearing clearances. They also may have a higher dose of antiwear additives to try to slow the wear process."

https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/

Bottles state synthetic oil no mineral, but website post is as you stated...? Made in France 🇫🇷... Could it be Motul? I wish... 😉

[Tiny]

I hope they know difference.  HAHAHAHAHAHAA