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Bicycling around Chapala


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There is a bicycle lane from Chapala to Ajijic. I have a number of friends that use their bikes as the  main means of transport. You will see many Mexicans who ride their bikes to work etc.  There are a number of organized bike clubs that are seen in packs on the weekends but I know nothing of the requirements to be a member.

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The paved bike lane that Sue mentions runs along most, but not all, of the carretera from the edge of Chapala to the edge of San Juan Cosala.    It is not continuous through all parts of Ajijic.    You can see it on Google Street View.

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I'm a bit surprised that no one has mentioned that recreational cycling around here is very different from, and infinitely more dangerous than, anything you're likely to be familiar with in the U.S. That carretera bike lane sees lots of use by pedestrians, scooters, the occasional golf cart, etc. and disappears completely through the busy villages. Cars pull over into it and buses stop on it whenever they feel like it. It also directly abuts the one and only paved road that circles the lake, which is heavily-trafficked except very early in the morning and in the wee hours. The air pollution alone would surely cancel out whatever aerobic benefits you might get from cycling along it. 

I write this from the perspective of being an avid road and mountain biker for many years. Yes there are serious racing cyclists that come to Lakeside to train, but they tend to do so very early in the mornings on Sundays, and they are escaping the vastly scarier traffic in Guadalajara, a city of 6+ million with the worst air pollution in the country. There are also small contingents of mountain bikers in this area but the better trails require throwing your bike on a bike rack and driving to the trailheads, and the trails themselves are usually very technical, with lots of loose pea-sized gravel, super steep grades and many obstacles. 

IMHO if recreational cycling is high on your list of priorities you ought to do it N.O.B. and find other activities to enjoy when at Lakeside. In general the only folks using bikes down here are ones who simply can't afford other transportation. It's a seriously dangerous way to get around in a third world country. 

 

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Candidly, we brought two very nice "dual sport" bikes with us but after trying to ride them on the rough streets decided it was not for us.  Both are now happily being used by our marvelous gardener and his sister who are in their twenties.

Kevin has summed up the safety aspect well.  Both of us are in our seventies and we just couldn't take the rough streets and hazards.  Too bad as when we RV'd we carried bikes and rode them hundreds of miles NOB.  We miss it and the climate here is perfect for cycling.

I believe bikes can be rented here, you all could come down and give it a try and see if it works for you.

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Bikes are very popular forms of transportation here for locals and even expats alike, but the crazy traffic and the rough cobble stone streets make it more a task than a pleasure.  I wonder if the road leaving Chapala to Mezcala would make for a good bicycle ride.  That highway is probably the most beautiful of the whole lake area, especially as you near Mezcala, and it has far less traffic than the carretera.

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2 hours ago, dichosalocura said:

Bikes are very popular forms of transportation here for locals and even expats alike, but the crazy traffic and the rough cobble stone streets make it more a task than a pleasure.  I wonder if the road leaving Chapala to Mezcala would make for a good bicycle ride.  That highway is probably the most beautiful of the whole lake area, especially as you near Mezcala, and it has far less traffic than the carretera.

Lots of drunk and/or careless drivers on that stretch. Not overly bike friendly there either.

The Ribera Chapala is not for active people of the kind used to the ease of sports activities NOB, especially if its REALLY NOB, like the Seattle and Vancouver areas. Active sports are doable here but it takes, planning, co-ordination, large groups for safety, nerves of steel and a deep masochistic tendency that makes love of the  adventure of it all worth the effort. If you plan on staying active well into your nether years, this is not the place for you. The local inertia will soon have you watching TV all evening and being in bed by 9-10pm. After all. the restaurants are mostly all closed by 8....

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28 minutes ago, Semalu said:

Lots of drunk and/or careless drivers on that stretch. Not overly bike friendly there either.

The Ribera Chapala is not for active people of the kind used to the ease of sports activities NOB, especially if its REALLY NOB, like the Seattle and Vancouver areas. Active sports are doable here but it takes, planning, co-ordination, large groups for safety, nerves of steel and a deep masochistic tendency that makes love of the  adventure of it all worth the effort. If you plan on staying active well into your nether years, this is not the place for you. The local inertia will soon have you watching TV all evening and being in bed by 9-10pm. After all. the restaurants are mostly all closed by 8....

Okay I rained on the biking parade but IMHO this is going a bit too far. 

My frame of reference is years spent living in Colorado and Washington state and our current home base of Tucson. Compared to these places biking at Lakeside is awful to the point of not even considering doing it, and hiking is limited and dangerous due to the trails being covered in pea-size gravel. My wife and I still get out and do some shorter hikes (1-2 hours) but with two trekking poles apiece and very grippy lightweight hikers. And it must be said there are plenty of spry 60-80 year olds who go out for hours at a time each and every Tuesday and Friday on the longstanding organized hikes that leave from Dona's Donuts, not to mention locals who run those same ~2000+ ft. elevation gain trails surefootedly in running shoes or even huaraches. 

There's a thriving tennis community here, good yoga instruction, volleyball, golf, the malecons and Cristiania park in Chapala for running without dealing with the cobbles and plenty of gyms. There are also a whole lot of folks who live here car-free and get in 2-5 miles a day of walking just living their lives and are much the better for it. And of course the climate is such that it's a rare day indeed that the weather keeps you from getting out and being in nature. 

 

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I tried a mountain bike but like Mainecoon gave it to my Gardener for his son. Lots and lots to do here but I suggest other activities than biking.  Its not very comfortable on the rock roads. If you do have to ride do it very early in the morning and put mirrors on your bike or helmet and watch like a hawk looking for a mouse when on the Bike path. I am all for enjoying life and taking chances but bike small cars big.  Hate to say it but simple physics here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Elizabeth,

My partner and I bicycled across the States then through Mexico to arrive in Ajijic. We've cycled thousands of kilometers throughout Mexico and our bicycles remain our main form of transportation here so we can give you an accurate idea of what your husband can expect.

Right off the bat, I have to eliminate some myths about cycling here. Bicycling in Mexico is no more dangerous than anywhere else. In fact, we feel safer riding here than we did anywhere in the States. People here are used to seeing, and therefore are more aware of, pedestrians and cyclists (not to mention livestock) on the roads so people tend to behave and drive more reasonably here than in the States. They slow down, give us plenty of room and often even turn on their hazards when passing to highlight our presence to other drivers. The demeanor of Mexican drivers compared to drivers in the States is exceptionally different. When you ride in the States people regularly and purposefully pass too close and sometimes at fatal speeds, often throw things at you out of open windows or yell loudly or honk in order to scare the crap out of you. They think it's funny (not life-threatening). Also, you have the jerks who honk at you angrily or sometimes even express road rage (i.e. in California I had a guy in a van literally stare me down as he ran me off the road; in rural New York I had a guy pass within inches of me at 60+mph on an empty two-lane road). In the five years we've been cycling in Mexico we've never had any aggression expressed toward us by any Mexican (driver or otherwise). In fact, we've received exactly the opposite - thumbs up signals, drivers pulling off to make sure we have food/water and directions, and locals who also ride (not because they can't afford anything else but because it's healthier & better for you & because they enjoy it) befriend us and offer to ride with us around the area. 

That being said, there are certain holidays and times of the week or day you don't want to ride due to heavy traffic and increased risk of holiday drinking. And one of the biggest threats when cycling are motorcyclists who like to pass moving traffic on the right side of the road. But, honestly, the largest threat we've experienced here in Ajijic/Chapala is related to older gringo drivers. Some honk a lot (that entitled and disgusted honk), will park in the bicycle lanes, will act like they can't slow down for anything or anyone (no matter how much danger they put others in), or they don't even comprehend the possibility that there are pedestrians or cyclists using the roads so they will often make turns without notice or turns right in to people on the bicycle paths. I think this may be more accentuated because of aging drivers - you do tend to lose your awareness as a driver as you age. All the locals who walk, run or cycle are well aware of the elderly-gringo danger and we take it in stride and often laugh or shake our heads about it (what can you do other than to put a wide bike lane through towns with huge signs notifying everyone that its a bike path and using road markers/concrete blockers along side it to warn drivers of its - and our - existence?! LOL).

Relating to possible rides/routes here:

1) The cobblestone streets make it harder to ride around town. They're truly annoying for cyclists and unless you have wider tires, don't bother.

2) Riding on the cycle path along the highway from Chapala through Jocotopec is fine and the path is generally in good shape, excepting the occasional section of potholes or gravel/mud washed in to the lane from recent rain storms (if it's rainy season), in which cases many cyclists take the road. I see workers clean up sections of the path at different times of the year and cyclists themselves will take the time to shovel off mud or sweep off debris. There are only a few short sections through downtown Chapala & Ajijic in which the bike path disappears for a bit but traffic is generally slower in those areas because of stoplights. My partner & I regularly ride between Ajijic and Chapala without incident and the ride from Ajijic to Jocotepec is quite pleasant, a round-trip of around 23 miles.

3) Riding east of Chapala is quite nice - my partner often rides in that area and he has said the traffic is minimal and views/landscape can be spectacular. You will likely encounter some cobblestone roads on the way through Chapala to get to paved roads and if you want to explore the pueblas you will likely have to ride in to town on cobblestones.

4) There are plenty of backroad adventures around the area but you'd be better off with a tour or mountain bike for those rides. If you're interested in more info on those, pm me and I'll have my partner connect with your husband to give more details.

5) There is a local cycling club which does occasional night rides and sometimes longer weekend rides to other locations throughout the area. We've done a few night rights w/them. This isn't a pro/road-cycle group but if you want to meet local cyclists and get more involved in local cycling culture, this is their facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/LakeNiteRidesChapalAjijic/

6) We have cycled with several groups from Guadalajara, in Guad and here. They have a Via Recreativa every Sunday in Guadalajara in which 64 km of city streets are closed from morning to mid-afternoon so that pedestrians, skateboarders, runners, and cyclists can use the streets. It's quite amazing and fun, and they've grown to around 200,000 people attending most Sundays! We made a video about it when we first arrived in Guadalajara (below). I also mention other groups in Guad (cycle groups & activists) that might lead your husband to connect w/road tours in the original blog post I wrote here (links to groups in the text of the lower half of the post): http://2cycle2gether.com/2012/12/gdl/#.V6PUmPkrK00

 

7) There is a group from Guad that comes down occasionally to do rides through this area. Every weekend they do an interesting ride somewhere around Guad/Jalisco and the one we attended included at pretty large group of cyclists. Most of the time the routes include some off-road cycling and a stop for food/drinks along the way. They are a really fun group. Here's a video of a trip we did with them in which they rode from Chapala to Jocotepec, visiting each malecon along the way. (their facebook page announcing weekly rides: https://www.facebook.com/camararodante/posts)

 

8) I see road cyclists come through here a lot on the weekends, some clubs and some just friends. Many are friendly and I'm sure would be willing to chat to share more information about road cycling in the area. I've found other cycle groups from Guad that ride in this area via Facebook and google. There are many groups you could get involved with down here.

So don't let your husband be deterred from cycling in Mexico or in this area! The cycling culture is alive, well and growing. :-) 

 

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I bet to differ with Shiela on one point.  Much safer to ride bikes in the Pacific Northwest than locally maybe the US varies in terms of bike awareness. Shiela brings up a lot of good points but just be aware, no headphones, use mirrors and watch your butt around the old folks. Its much much worse than where I came from in US.  Walking is very dangerous here sometimes but you get use to it and I imagine a biker will get use to it eventually. 

Be Safe!!

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16 hours ago, Sheila said:

Hi Elizabeth,

My partner and I bicycled across the States then through Mexico to arrive in Ajijic. We've cycled thousands of kilometers throughout Mexico and our bicycles remain our main form of transportation here so we can give you an accurate idea of what your husband can expect.

 

.. This was a great review of area cycling.  What a find!  Love the idea of Sunday Cycling in Guad, and will be having friends who cycle come to visit this November.  One is quite the cycle enthusiast, far beyond our approach.  He actually has asked us to find a bicycle for him, in advance... and we'd prefer to rent, but if the only way to get what he requires, for this and future visits is purchase... we will have to do that as our bikes will be in motion and don't cut his prefs.   

Where can I find: borrow, buy or rent a 54 cm road bike?

Any resources for this appreciated!

Thanks again for your excellent post on cycling.  Certainly answers questions in a positive light.

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I have biked in Ajijic & Chapala for the last 6yrs.

The most dangerous areas in town are all intersections with the cyclopista (local in-town bike path), where gringos drivers enter & exit, Dog walkers are also prone to cover the path as are groups who randomly gather along the way stopping for extended chats. If careful it is doable. Most dangerous is the accumulation of fine dust &/or gravel! Without warning you will find yourself down if any slight turn is attempted!

I personally have switched to the highway route from Chapala towards Mescala turning back after a short detour thru the golf cub then returning at the eastern border of Chapala where the shoulder disappears . I drive against the traffic, bike has flashing LED's & a mirror. I will switch from facing traffic to other side when meeting farm vehicles or when entering on a inside curve. The shoulders are often used as part of the road by approaching traffic so best to go to where you & they can see each other. The views are wonderful. Locals get to know u by sight, all wave &/or say hello. Many give way as they pass, as mentioned previously locals are always aware, looking both ways checking for bikes & pedestrians. Enjoy

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I don't bicycle so I can't give you any advice on that but I'd think that you'd be safer here than in most places NOB.

After living here for a while, you become very aware of everything around you when driving.  You can find anything in the road down here and I do mean anything.  Dogs, cats, kids, jaywalkers, huge trucks, livestock, motor bikes, ATVs, golf carts, bicycles all share the road.  In the past month or so, I've had to stop for a pony and 4 huge cows being in the road.  You learn to take it all in stride and make sure that you don't hit anything.

 

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6 hours ago, PORTIMOM said:

.. This was a great review of area cycling.  What a find!  Love the idea of Sunday Cycling in Guad, and will be having friends who cycle come to visit this November.  One is quite the cycle enthusiast, far beyond our approach.  He actually has asked us to find a bicycle for him, in advance... and we'd prefer to rent, but if the only way to get what he requires, for this and future visits is purchase... we will have to do that as our bikes will be in motion and don't cut his prefs.   

Where can I find: borrow, buy or rent a 54 cm road bike?

Any resources for this appreciated!

Thanks again for your excellent post on cycling.  Certainly answers questions in a positive light.

 

When my husband and I were in Guadalajara last Sunday, I noticed a long rack containings about a dozen bikes.  There was a sign "MiBici"    Apparently you can rent these bikes.  I watched a few people return bikes here, using a card.   It would be easy enough to "google" this and get the information.  

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20 hours ago, Irish Gal said:

When my husband and I were in Guadalajara last Sunday, I noticed a long rack containings about a dozen bikes.  There was a sign "MiBici"    Apparently you can rent these bikes.  I watched a few people return bikes here, using a card.   It would be easy enough to "google" this and get the information.  

Hi Irish Gal... Thanks for that lead!  I think if we do a rental, we'd prefer one that is local (Lake Chapala area vs Guad).  We are also considering just purchasing an extra bike...  for family members to use.   If we get lucky to find a 54 cm road bike, that would be great.  Best to start looking early.

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4 hours ago, gwynne said:

Sheila,

I tried to PM you but you can't receive messages.

Hmmm, not sure why. I checked settings and can't figure out why that would be the case. I'll try PMing you. Thanks.

 

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OK, I have to add my 2 centavos. I usually ride from Chapala Haciendas, down the libramiento, through Riberas and Chapala and then back to CH (about 18kms/11.5 miles) and sometimes go to Jocotepec and back (36 miles, more or less). I've taken long-distance bike trips in the US and one in Mexico.. I've had some close encounters and some really incredibly considerate encounters. Is it more dangerous riding here? Probably, but use common sense. Although I have a small speaker playing (no earbuds), I am ALWAYS aware of what's around me. I'm no great rider (just look for the chubs in neon colors...that's me!), but I love to ride. I wear bright neon clothing, have flashing lights on my helmet and bike, a truly geeky mirror on my helmet and use other things that scream "Watch out!!!" The cobblestones are a pain, so avoid them. Other than that, just be sure to keep alert. The views are worth it. 

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For bike rentals on day of the Via Recreativa in Guad, as I stated in my blog post linked above: " Via RecreActiva even provides bicycles on loan if you don’t have or can’t afford a bicycle of your own (one I.D. gives you access to two bicycles for the day) as well as maps of the route and guided bicycle tours of the city."

For rentals in Chapala/Ajijic I would check with several bike shops in the area. I'm sure some of them would be flexible and rent something to folks for visits here. There used to be an adventure group here but I don't ever see them advertising bicycle rentals any longer.

You could also post something in WANTED in the Ojo del Lago or Chapala.com's advertising section. I'm sure a few people have bicycles here that don't regularly use them and might be willing to lend or sell you something that would work for short-term. :-)

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