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Reasonable price re: rebuilt rack and pinion for Nissan Xtrail?


Serenity6

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So. For anyone willing to give me a bit of advice, I have two issues.

1) Power steering fluid was leaking all over the underside of the front/right carriage of my car. The power steering fluid level itself was very low - lower than the lowest indicator bar in the reservoir. Car has 100,000km on it. Made sense it was time for a rebuild.

I was told that there was still oil inside the rack/pinion, not dry, and no need to buy a new one. They rebuilt it, polished this rod-looking thing (they showed me one off another car) replaced all o-rings and seals.

I was asked 4,500 pesos. I figured this was a gringo price but I was in no mood or condition to go to shop to shop and I needed it done right then and there.

I am thinking I was overcharged about 1000 pesos? Am I mistaken here?

Picked up car, might be my imagination but seems much easier to steer, and of course they water-pressure cleaned all that gunk (and gave me a ride to/from home. Saved 14 pesos on bus fare! But I was appreciative of the ride.)

2) 6 month ago brought same car in as was time for a replacement of all brake pads. I always insist they keep the old parts so I can have a look. Pads were in definite need of a change. Brakes never, ever squeaked prior to changing of pads.

All went well. The right rear wheel require a resurfacing of the rotor. I authorized it. Drove home and squeaking of right rear brake, upon application of brakes, commenced. Not all the time, but most of the time. Never happened before. Then on top of that, a "clunking" sound, from same right-rear wheel, only when I applied the brakes. It was harder to brake, but I didn't feel the pedal pushing back on me.

Brought car back in. I can only stand around and watch them so much (I demanded a new mechanic when I realize the first guy was unable to take my wheel off after 25 minutes - my dead grandmother could do it faster.) They said the pad had to be 'adjusted' (for the clunking noise). We did not discuss and I did not authorize a resurfacing of the rotor for a 2nd time. Not sure if they did or did not touch the rotor. Also they assured me the squeaking was taken care of.

Drove home, clunking gone, but squeaking upon brake application continued.

So when I brought the car in for the rack/pinion work, I told them to FIX THAT DAMN BRAKE ISSUE! They said they "cleaned it and it was dust". Drove straight home and sure enough, still squeaking!

I was told by a friend: take the car back, insist that they remove and thoroughly clean the break pads/calipers/pistons/everything. Also, that they take a set of calipers and measure both rear brake discs (which can be done with wheels on) while car is lifted. I want to see first, are both rear rotors still within spec, and second, if the right rotor is worn more than the left.

If the the initial (and perhaps 2nd, if it occurred w/o my knowledge) resurfacing of the right rear rotor was not done correctly, couldn't that cause both the clunking and the squeaking? Maybe they resurfaced it again w/o telling me, which I would not be happy with as that reduce the life of the rotor and perhaps the pad. Is it possible that the initial (maybe 2nd) resurfacing job was done so poorly that it will always squeak, even if the pads are correctly installed and all brake components are adequately cleaned? Would this not reduce pad life, as well as reduce braking power? Not enough to kill me, but I like to maintain my car well and one day I will sell it and want it in tip-top condition.

If they clean all brake components as I request and it still squeaks, what's the other possibility for the squeaking aside from they messed upon on resurfacing my disc? Prior to their work, nothing ever squeaked, squealed or clunked, and there are no issues with all other 3 tires/brakes.

3) One last question: Also had an oil change done 6 months ago. Checked my oil fluid last week - its BELOW the lowest indicator mark. No 'low oil' or any indicator lights ever lit up on the dash, no leaks. Owner tells me I need a heavier weight oil because "my engine is working hard in the heat." Huh? I drive conservatively, oil was changed less than 6 months age and I put max 1,500 km, mostly freeway miles. I know people who have driven on the same oil for 30k miles - not smart, but they don't seem to run out of oil. Even if I neither see smoke nor smell burning oil, is it possible that my engine has some piston issue and is slowly burning up oil?

Or...maybe the guy who changed my oil just forgot to put in the sufficient refill amount? I had a full change and now its 20/50 weight.

Sorry for the novel. Any insight would be appreciated.

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In my view, it's probably time to do one of two things..... get rid of that Xtrail or move to another mechanic! And, oh, I would never put 20/50 oil in a car with so few miles (with no apparent signs of either leaking or blowing oil).

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rack and pinion replacement in the us runs in the area of $1000, give or take. brake squeak can be caused by a number of things,if braking power feels the same, and no other issues, drive 1000 miles or so to bed in the pads. always confirm fluid levels after service, straight away. if an explanation about a problem concerning your car sounds illogical, it's probably bs. cuidado, everest

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All work was done by the same shop. I am not ready to name them yet. Of course I knew I was taking a risk by returning to the same shop that couldn't do a simply brake pad change properly the first time around, but I spoke to the owner, and said that that one mechanic is forbidden to touch my car again.

Spoke to the mechanic by Superlake. Heard both good and not so good reviews, but he was too busy for me. For the rack/pinion work, I needed it done immediately.

For the person who mentioned get rid of the car, why would I do that? Any car with 100km on it, especially on these roads, is going to need repair and maintenance and I love the car and its treated me well. To sell it and buy another used car means I lose money and I have no idea what I'm getting into with the replacement used car.

Very much appreciate everyone's insight and help.

To be clear: R/P was not replaced, but rebuilt.

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Many things can cause the brakes to squeal. It could be the composition of the pad material that the pads are made from, a lack of or different pad shims from the OE ones, sticking caliper pistons, dirt buildup, etc. Any competent brake mechanic should be able to sort this out. My first suspicion would be that cheap pads were used. Turning of rotors is old school and not usually done any more. Replacement new rotors are relatively inexpensive and are typically changed at the same time that new pads are installed.

You should stick with the manufacturer's recommendations for the oil viscosity you use in the vehicle, It is indicated in the owner's manual. NEVER listen to some shade tree mechanic that tries to tell you a heavier weight oil should be used because of the heat - total BS. You should always check the oil level on the dipstick when the engine is cool and has been sitting for a while. Checking it while hot and after just shutting it off will give you a slightly lower reading because not all of the oil has made its way back down to the sump yet. Common trick of the gas jockeys at the filling stations to try and "upsell" you some of their over priced oil. Dip sticks usually have a MIN and MAX indication - OK as long as you keep it within that range.

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Ezzie: Thank you. When he started babbling nonsense of the "motor working hard because its so hot" I just gaped. I'm obviously no mechanic, but that was just insulting to my intelligence. I should've checked the level right after the oil change 6 months ago, but I have a feeling whomever did it just didn't fill it enough. Unless my engine is burning oil that I can't smell, why would the oil level be lower than the lowest indicator mark (even when the engine is cold?) Its not that hot here, and "working hard"? C'mon.

I'll check the manual for the correct oil weight. I'll will make them take apart and clean the brake components. I'm ready to throw in the towel with these mechanics but am not sure if anywhere else would be any better.

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"For the person who mentioned get rid of the car, why would I do that? Any car with 100km on it, especially on these roads, is going to need repair and maintenance and I love the car and its treated me well."

For the most part I was being silly about that part.... for which I apologize. The part about changing mechanics was sincere 'tho.

While I don't have a lot of experience (none!) with an xTrail since it is not sold in the US to their standards (maybe), I know the 'class' SUV it is and can make some observations.... You did not mention the age/year of the car and that can make a difference. 100,000km is not a lot of miles for today's vehicles. And even if it is pretty old (maybe you don't drive it much), a rack & pinion 'should' last longer. Cobblestone roads have much more of a negative influence on suspension parts (struts, ball joints, bushings, tie-rods etc) than the rack. But it can happen. Your 4500 pesos ($250) for a rebuilt rack is not out of the question even at Mexican labor costs IMO.

Back to the oil.... I second the comment about using what the manufacturer recommends, or certainly something VERY close. But someone recommending 20/50 for that car and your driving habits AND where you drive (meaning not in the Chihuchuan desert, high speed for hours on end) would be enough for me to find a new mechanic. In fact if it were my car I'd dump that heavy oil right away and put in the recommended oil and never look back..... but look for another mechanic. THEN watch your oil consumption over the next X months (and watch for any drips when parked) to determine what might be causing, if anything, the original low oil dip stick.

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Ron Young is on the lateral in Chapala over the road from Soriana - a great and trustworthy guy. Call and leave a message and he WILL call you back. 765 6387.

MANY thanks! And looks like my atrocious Spanish won't be an issue here.

RickS: No worries! But yes, you're right. I've given this shop too many chances.

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