Chasing The Wave

By Margie Keane

 

 

waveJoe lay on his board, rocking gently on a blue satin sheet of ocean, hoping for one more ride before leaving Bali. The surfing here was awesome. Uluwatu and Padang-Padang were always bitchin’ even with the crowds. Thanks to the locals and his gift to them of a case of beer, he found some beaches known only to serious surfers. Those were perfect days.

Panaitan Island, near Jakarta had been pretty exciting, but Fiji had been the ultimate. The breaks at Namotu, especially at Cloud Break were so extreme he became totally fierce in his endless efforts to master them. Over and over again, each time he grabbed a wave, he knew he could get seriously cranked as he shot the curl, fighting to stay in the middle of the face. With every ride he knew a wipe out on those 18-foot waves could end his dream, maybe his life but the thrill of it kept him going back for one more ride. Next destination was Sumatra, and then he was heading home.

Turning his head he saw a vision that took his breath away. It eclipsed all his thoughts about big waves. Floating next to him was this gorgeous, silken beauty. She was long and lean, with just the right curves. Her honey colored skin gleamed golden in the sun. He wanted to run his hands over this elegant beauty. He wanted to hold her, feel her next to him. He would have made a move, but she was with this great big dude who had her wrapped in his arms.

He caught Joe staring. “You like her, dontcha?”

“Yeah, man. She’s sweet!”

“Wanna take her for awhile?”

“You kiddin’ me?”

“No, dog, I gotta take a break.”

I couldn’t believe it. Oh, man!

On shore, the big dude handed her over to me. I held her gingerly, shyly. I stroked her reverently. We became one immediately. I was in love. We were out on the ocean together for about an hour, waves lifting us up, we rode them with abandon, in tune with the ocean and each other. I wanted this to go on forever. Wasn’t gonna happen.

A sharp whistle ended the magic. Glancing toward the beach I saw the big dude motioning us in. With a sigh we paddled towards shore. I pressed my body against her, sliding my hands over her one last time, before he let her go.

The big dude put his arm around her. “So whaddya think?”

With a smile, I replied, “Man, she is one hot board!”

Pin It
The Dark Side Of The Dream By Alejandro Grattan-Dominguez, Arte Publico Press 434 pages $11.95 US Reviewed by ROB MOHR (Initially published in The
The Ghosts Among Us By Fred Mittag Catherine the Great (1729-1796)   Catherine was both a lusty and a brilliant woman. She excelled in all her
The Ojo Internet Mailbox (Wherein we publish some comments about our previous issues.)   VIEW FROM THE SOUTH SHORE Barbara Hopkins I lived in
The Woman Who Thought She Loved Men By Zofia BarisasReviewed by Rob Mohr   The heroine reflects, “While my mind dwelled on bitter-sweet memories
Niños Incapacitados can now provide tax receipts to Canadian donors     Niños Incapacitados has signed a unique tripartite agreement
Wordwise With Pithy Wit By Tom Clarkson   This morning, my pal F.T. – who shared the Iraq experience with me during my third trek there – forwarded
LAKESIDE LIVING Kay Davis Phone: 376 – 108 – 0278 (or 765 – 3676 to leave messages) Email: kdavis987@gmail.com November
Front Row Center By Michael Warren    The Pajama Game By Richard Adler and Jerry Ross Directed by Peggy Lord Chilton Music directed
Every Word  Important By Herbert W. Piekow   Every word a writer writes has meaning yes, sometimes they never get published or the book
LEGERDEMAIN—Italian Style By Jim Rambologna   Enzio Grattani was the Editor-in-Chief of a local rivista (or magazine) in Ajiermo, Italy. Locals
 Find us on Facebook