Chasing The Wave
By Margie Keane
Joe lay on his board, rocking gently on a blue satin sheet of ocean, hoping for one more ride before leaving Bali. The surfing here was awesome. Uluwatu and Padang-Padang were always bitchin’ even with the crowds. Thanks to the locals and his gift to them of a case of beer, he found some beaches known only to serious surfers. Those were perfect days.
Panaitan Island, near Jakarta had been pretty exciting, but Fiji had been the ultimate. The breaks at Namotu, especially at Cloud Break were so extreme he became totally fierce in his endless efforts to master them. Over and over again, each time he grabbed a wave, he knew he could get seriously cranked as he shot the curl, fighting to stay in the middle of the face. With every ride he knew a wipe out on those 18-foot waves could end his dream, maybe his life but the thrill of it kept him going back for one more ride. Next destination was Sumatra, and then he was heading home.
Turning his head he saw a vision that took his breath away. It eclipsed all his thoughts about big waves. Floating next to him was this gorgeous, silken beauty. She was long and lean, with just the right curves. Her honey colored skin gleamed golden in the sun. He wanted to run his hands over this elegant beauty. He wanted to hold her, feel her next to him. He would have made a move, but she was with this great big dude who had her wrapped in his arms.
He caught Joe staring. “You like her, dontcha?”
“Yeah, man. She’s sweet!”
“Wanna take her for awhile?”
“You kiddin’ me?”
“No, dog, I gotta take a break.”
I couldn’t believe it. Oh, man!
On shore, the big dude handed her over to me. I held her gingerly, shyly. I stroked her reverently. We became one immediately. I was in love. We were out on the ocean together for about an hour, waves lifting us up, we rode them with abandon, in tune with the ocean and each other. I wanted this to go on forever. Wasn’t gonna happen.
A sharp whistle ended the magic. Glancing toward the beach I saw the big dude motioning us in. With a sigh we paddled towards shore. I pressed my body against her, sliding my hands over her one last time, before he let her go.
The big dude put his arm around her. “So whaddya think?”
With a smile, I replied, “Man, she is one hot board!”