The Allure Of Oaxaca
By Alvin Starkman M.A., LL.B.
Oaxaca has two main advantages over other southern destinations for snowbirds and permanent expats. First, you can explore one of the most culturally rich regions in Latin America, and then if the mood strikes, hop a plane, and in 35 minutes be relaxing on a sandy beach sipping margaritas. Second, there is enough of an expat presence in the city to enable a vacationer to spend part of the time with other Anglophones if inclined, and the balance with native Mexicans.
Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s southernmost states. Its capital, the city of Oaxaca, has a population upwards of 400,000 brimming with Old World charm. A UNESCO world heritage site, the city and central valleys are filled with pre-Hispanic ruins, 16th century churches, colorful market towns and craft villages, art galleries and museums, and renowned cuisine. In 2006 Oaxaca was named one of the ten most important travel destinations, worldwide.
Begin a visit by spending the first couple of days downtown, wandering the zócalo, the city’s central square, lined with outdoor cafés and balconied restaurants. There you’ll soak up the live music of mariachis, marimbas and Latin dance bands. From the street vendors you’ll preview the array of local crafts you’ll have an opportunity to purchase in the villages. Marvel at the exquisite colonial architecture, centuries-old artistic wrought ironwork, and green limestone block construction.
Be sure to walk up Calle Garcia Vigilto Los Arquitos, the 18th century aqueduct where you’ll encounter quaint restaurants, dwellings, and a weekend organic market. Down the street drop by the home where the first indigenous president of Mexico, Oaxaca’s own Benito Juarez lived. During his rule, Juarez succeeded in separating church and state, the ultimate marker being his declaration that all church marriages were invalid.
The Cathedral at the north end of the zócalo, La Soledad a few blocks west, and Santo Domingo a short walk up the city’s main pedestrian walkway, are the three must-see Dominican churches, in their grandeur and refurbished glory. The Santa Domingo Cultural Centre adjoining the church has impressive displays covering various historical periods, well laid out in several halls.
The ethno-botanical gardens behind the complex, showcasing cactus, succulents and trees all native to the state, offers an English tour three times weekly. The Rufino Tamayo Museum of Pre-Hispanic Art is the other major museum for both archaeology aficionados and those with an eye for early aesthetics. It represents the collection donated by Tamayo, a grand master of Mexican art and one of the state’s native sons.
Oaxaca boasts over 50 galleries and artist studios, representing the fruits of a rich, longstanding tradition. One can easily spend an entire vacation exploring the artistic community. Not a week seems to go by when there is not a new opening, a benefit auction, or an opportunity to stop and chat with an impressive young artist and perhaps get invited to his workshopfor a peek at his latest yet unfinished works.
About a half hour’s drive outside of the city you’ll be awe-struck by the San Agustín Center for The Arts, with rotating displays, housed in a majestic 19th century textile mill. Then tour the nearby hand-made paper factory. Both are located in a lush, panoramic rural setting, the brainchild of contemporary Oaxacan artist and philanthropist Francisco Toledo.
A number of cooking schools have sprung up over the last couple of decades. Novice cooks, seasoned chefs and restaurateurs from around the globe converge on the city to take classes. Internationally acclaimed Oaxacan chef Pilar Cabrera believes it’s important for students to get into the local marketplace where fresh ingredients are purchased, as part of the learning experience: “I first take my class to the market, where Oaxacans have traditionally bought their ingredients, to teach about the characteristics and variety of foodstuffs, substitutes for produce hard to find back home, and simply as a part of a full immersion cultural experience.”
The Zapotecs have been one of the state’s pre-dominant cultures for over 2,000 years, and in many towns and villages remain a strong presence today, with native tongue still spoken. One of the vestiges of Zapotec society is the ruin at Mitla, encountered along the same route.
Mitla is unique because of its multi-ton limestone lintels, estimated 100,000 hand carved stones used to form friezes in various geometric designs, the remains of pictographs which tell family genealogies, and its tombs. Mitla is second only to the most noted ruin in the state, Monte Albán, a 15-minute drive from Oaxaca.
You can easily spend a full day down the road in Ocotlán. Aside from its Friday market, visit the workshops of the Aguilar sisters who make painted clay figures depicting townspeople in their regional dress, market scenes, biblical stories and amusing sexual images. Their cousin, Apolinar Aguilar, hand-forges knives and cutlery utilizing the 16th century Toledo, Spain technique. He works with only recycled metals and other materials, using a stone and clay hearth. His workshop was enlisted to make the swords used in the 1980s feature film Conan the Barbarian.
In the centre of town you’ll have an opportunity to learn about another late great master of Mexican art, Rodolfo Morales. His works are on display in the town museum, and at his Foundation located in his family’s typical courtyard style colonial home. The most impressive example of his work is the large fresco mural which can be viewed in a government building at one end of the square.
While cultural attractions are clearly a major draw to the region, the state is not without sand and surf. The Pacific beach resort towns of Huatulco and Puerto Escondido are a short flight or a very scenic drive from the state capital, enabling vacationers to split their holiday time between two distinctly different experiences.
After an initial tour of the capital, consider more extended visits as part of a retirement plan. Contact with other Canadians and Americans is easily facilitated through the English language library, one of the largest in the country. Through it one can meet other expats in a relaxed and welcoming environment, and become part of the various outreach programs, card and other game groups, monthly dinner get-togethers, the garden club, frequent excursions, and much more.
The allure of Oaxaca is much more than the year round warm climate, modest cost of living and broad range of available activities …it’s the welcoming nature of its people.