THE DELIGHTS OF SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE
San Miguel has been attracting artists from Mexico and abroad for years, who attend classes in various art forms at the Instituto Allende and the Bellas Artes. Few Mexican State capitals can boast a similar cultural sophistication. Spanish instruction is also very popular and there are many academies to choose from.
San Miguel de Allende (SMA as it is known to locals), a town so delightful the federal government has declared it a national monument. It is like no other place in Mexico - small, quaint and picturesque. It is casually sophisticated and highly intellectual in a relaxed way all its own. Many North Americans have discovered its many charms and reside there permanently.
Founded in 1540, San Miguel is named for the saint and for Ignacio Allende, one of the leaders of the Mexican struggle for Independence. Its most famous landmark is the parish church, known simply as La Parroquia, which was built by an uneducated mason who is said to have been inspired by picture postcards of European Gothic cathedrals. There's nothing quite like it anywhere else in Mexico.
Fray Juan de San Miguel taught the Indians handicrafts and the town has been a citadel for artisans ever since. It is now noted for its tin picture frames and mirrors, as well as copper and brass jewelry and for weaving and embroidery. There is a story that the serape was invented in SMA --no other place in Mexico has claimed credit for this garment!
Above all, San Miguel is friendly. Everyone's favorite pasttime is sitting on the benches at the Jardin (the main plaza) and engaging in coversation with various and sundry residents. Or simply to wander the little cobblestone streets, shop, relax at a restaurant and enjoy being alive and well in SMA! While at the Jardin, stroll across to the tourist office next to the Parroquia and avail yourself of a copy of "Inside San Miguel," an excellent publication.
On Mondays, everyone searches for"Atención San Miguel" the delightful weekly English-language newspaper which carries information on what's happening that week. Another enjoyable activity is the House and Garden tour which takes place on Sundays at noon. Departing from the Biblioteca in the central part of town, these tours for charity visit the lovely homes of well-known San Miguel residents who are usually on the premises and happy to answer questions. This is usually followed by lunch at Hacienda de Don Pepe's on Mesones Street, a favorite of the American residents.
Dress Tip: San Miguel is conservative, it is not a resort and the local residents, both Mexican and American, do not walk about in shorts.
Outstanding Shops: Casa Maxwell, on Canal Street; La Antigua Casa Canela on Umaran #20; Casa del Inquisidor, Cuadrante #36; Casa Armida, Ancha de San Antonio #26,Casas Coloniales, Canal 36. Lovely home decorating items can be found at all these, which are housed ín elegant, colonial houses.
Prettiest Shopping Arcade: El Mesón de San Jose at Mesones #38. Lovely shops around a courtyard restaurant, featuring excellent local and Guatemalan handicrafts.
Best Breakfast Ambiance/Food: Mama Mía on Amaran #S. Also La Parroquia on Calle Jesus.
Best Ever Mexican Food: The Buganbilias, situated in a colonial house on Hidalgo 42. Must try: Chiles en Nogada -- food for the Gods!
Most Elegant Restaurant and Service: El Campanario on Canal Street. Wonderful and not overly expensíve. They carry Xanic wines, which are served at Los Pinos, the Mexican White House
Flamenco Dancing: A great show on weekends at Rincón Español on Correo Street. Food so-so.
Inexpensive but Good: El Otro Cafe at Mesones 95 and El Buen Cafe, corner of Jesus and Cuadrante Sts. Healthy, home-made food at great prices.
The Woolworthls of San Miguel: Casa Anguiano at the corner of Canal and Hernandez Macias. A whole collection of Mexican arts and crafts at very resonable prices.
Accommodations:
UPSCALE:
Hotel Real de Minas - Five-star Colonial Elegance. Near Instituto Allende. Ph. (415) 2-26-26, At Calle Ancha de San Antonio.
La Puertecita Boutique Hotel. Innovative and luxurious. Secluded. (415)2-22-50. Santo Domingo 75.
Hotel Sierra Nevada - Posh hostelry comprised of several colonial homes. (415) 2-70-40. Behind the Parraquia at Hospicio 35.
Villa Mirasol: Recommended by Birnbaum's Mexico. Bed and Breakfast. Close to the Jardín. (415) 2-15-64
Casa Carmen on Correo #31. Boarding House owned and operated by Americans. Very nice.
Posada Carmina: across the side street from the Parroquia. Pleasant, older colonial hotel.
Hotel Posada de las Monjas - popular with art students of all ages. Canal #37. (415) 2-01-71
Hacienda de las Flores: On Hospicio 16. Very quiet, small (11 rooms) garden hotel. Very pretty.
Hotel Mansion Virreyes - Canal 19. (415) 2-33-55. A half block from the Jardin, itls very reasonable ($420 for two with full breakfast).
SIDE TRIP
The town of Dolores Hidalgo is only a half hour away, and lays claim to where the cry ("Grito") for independence was first heard in September of 1810. It has become a patriotic shrine, and the town is kept well-polished. The famous Talavera pottery can be found here at reasonable prices. My favorite shop is run by Carrillo Vertiz Hermanos, located at Puebla 54. (Corner of Tamaulipas.) They have an awesome array of plates, lamp bases, vasesl cups,, etc. etc. They also pack and ship.
Also notable in Dolores is the ice cream vendor at the plaza, who features over 30 exotic flavors, including avocado!
MOST FUN TIME TO BE IN SAN MIGUEL: The Dia de Locos or Dia de San Antonio. Held on a Sunday the second week in June, this 17-year-old festival parade features participants in all manner of crazy dress, floats and a rowdy good time is had by all.
|