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by Mildred Boyd
To be called Hacendado in Colonial Mexico was to be recognized as someone of high social rank and influence. The title meant that you or one of your ancestors had been awarded a few hundred acres of land, complete with peons to work it, for some vital service to the Crown. That the land sometimes provided a princely income was usually of lesser importance to a proud Spanish Hidalgo than high social status. Since the true Spanish Grandees had little incentive to seek their fortunes in the New World, most of these new landowners were minor nobles or younger sons of the great houses eager for status.
Though others started with much smaller grants, any enterprising Hacendado soon bought every available acre he could and then started illegally confiscating the lands belonging to the indigenous peoples. Some of these augmented estates reached the size of a small European country. The Catholic Church, the Jesuit order in particular, owned vast acreages all over Mexico.
Now landless, the natives were forced to labor for the new landowner. They were either peons, who were virtual slaves, or tenant farmers, who could never meet their quotas and wound up owing their souls to the Company store. For, by the eighteenth century, a typical hacienda was a self-contained institution. The ostentatiously luxurious main house and its guest quarters were only for show. For the working people there were stables, a general store, a chapel, a school, equipment stores, servants' quarters, granaries, corrals and a forge. Clothing was produced at the hacienda from cloth woven on the premises. Haciendas played host to a variety of activities from baptisms, weddings, and celebrations of saints' days to fiestas, charro (cowboy) parties and contests, bullfights, and harvest festivals. Due to the lack of hostelries in rural areas, total strangers who stopped by for the night or the week could expect to receive a hearty welcome.
Depending on the region haciendas usually concentrated their efforts on one particular product. In Zacatecas, for instance, it was mescal, in Morelos, sugar, in Hidalgo, pulque and in Querétaro, cattle. Around the haciendas, and administered by them, were smaller ranches which supplied grain and other seasonal crops. Besides its main crop, each Hacienda produced food, clothing, and housing for its people.
Early in the nineteenth century there had been attempts to dissolve the haciendas and restore their land to the Indians. From 1876 until 1911 Porfirio Díaz, who ruled Mexico as dictator, did just the opposite. He abolished the law limiting the size of individual holdings and made land available to establish new haciendas and increase the size of many existing ones. During his rule many haciendas were given a face-lift, usually in the form of a proud neoclassical style mansion reflecting the new national confidence. But all that soon change and with a vengeance! The revolution of 1910-1920 finished the haciendas. The enlisted troops of Pancho Villa, Venustiano Carranza and Emiliano Zapata roamed the country, burning and pillaging every hacienda they could find and killing anybody, Hacendado or peone, who got in their way. In 1917, haciendas were abolished by law and the lands were restored to the Indians to be owned collectively. Other landowners were subsequently allowed to hold no more than 200 acres. A number of such restored mansions are to be found here in Jalisco and, though most are off the beaten tourist path, each is well worth a visit. Haciendas, Casonas y Estancias del Estado de Jalisco is a tourist organization now offering circuit tours of the more important sites, including luxurious homes that were not strictly haciendas. Two of the more interesting are the Hacienda el Carmen, near the village of the same name, and Hacienda Sepulveda, near Lagos de Moreno. El Carmen, dating from 1722 and boasting 24 rooms, is by far the largest and most luxurious. It still retains some 400 acres of its former holdings. Sepulveda is older, having been founded in the 16th century, and smaller, with only nine suites. Both provide the full range services of resort and spa. Sepulveda also maintains a stable of horses. The old Hacendados might be surprised to find a swimming pool and Jacuzzi in their extensive gardens or a fully equipped spa in the granary, but tourists should love them. |